diamond geezer

 Monday, October 04, 2021

Gadabout: NEWARK

One stop north of Grantham, halfway between Nottingham and Lincoln, lies the historic market town of Newark. Officially it's Newark-on-Trent, the river being a key feature, and the nearby county boundary places it in Notts rather than Lincs. It's where a Roman road (the Fosse Way) crosses the Great North Road, has its own castle and held considerable strategic importance during the Civil War. Best of all it's kept its heritage heart without significant modern damage, so is actually worth visiting.
[12 photos] [visit Newark] [map]

All roads lead to the Market Place, or rather they don't because the town has sensibly kept most motor vehicles at bay. This is a very large open space, approximately rectangular, filled with rows of red-striped stalls and surrounded on all sides by shops and civic buildings. I was underwhelmed to see just four traders, one selling stacks of DVDs and another old metal toys, but this turned out to be because Thursdays are for "pre-loved and collectors" so I missed the proper stuff.
#nerdfact Newark was the first town in England to hold a market on a Wednesday.

Several of the buildings around the rim are very old, including two timber-framed beauties from the 1460s. Slotted into one corner between Boots and Smiths is The Olde White Hart, a former coaching inn, whose highly decorated frontage is embellished with tiny figures of saints. It's even older round the back. Opposite Nat West is what must be the oldest Greggs in the country, based inside the Governor's House where Royalist commanders established an HQ during the Civil War. The plaque on the front reads "Prince Rupert stayed here after his quarrel with the King, October 19th 1645", immediately above adverts for Oven Baked Pepperoni Pizza and Pumpkin Spice Latte. However Greggs now have plans to move to larger premises two doors down leaving the Grade I listed building empty, which is already the fate of The Olde White Hart after long term tenants the Nottingham Building Society moved out earlier this year.

The Town Hall is an imposing sight, with its neoclassical facade dating from 1776 when Newark's civic coffers were full. Step up beneath the tetrastyle portico to follow a public walkway through the centre of the building which opens out into a wholly unexpected arcade painted salmon pink and lit with chandeliers. The doors to the town's museum and art gallery are alas firmly locked, and have been since March 2020 while the town council "review its future and relevancy", but it's expected that the period rooms and galleries will reopen at the end of the month. With that pleasure denied I ought instead to have visited the National Civil War Centre on Appletongate, a proper modern three-storey £8-entry attraction, but I hadn't left enough time in my schedule to give that the hour I suspect it deserved.

I also had no luck getting inside the Church of St Mary Magdalene, the town's loftily impressive Norman Gothic church, because I arrived at the same time as a parishioner in a Lincs Co-Op Funeral Services hearse. Instead I was left to walk around the exterior, where I failed to spot the hole in the steeple supposedly made by a musket ball during the Civil War but did find a blue plaque dedicated to Constance Adelaide Smith. It was she who popularised Mothering Sunday in this country in the 1920s, specifically to keep the upstart American invention Mother's Day at bay, and that's why we still send our cards before Easter and not in mid-May.

Newark's retail offering is pretty good, especially for smaller independent shops like jewellers, art suppliers and Vale of Belvoir butchers. It has a branch of Boyes, the northeast's almost-department store, and a short arcade where you can pick up a sewing machine, a rug or a tattoo. The country set seem well catered for but there's also a Wilko and a New Look tucked away mostly out of sight, as befits a town where a 2-bed flat can still be picked up for a five figure sum. One of the most exuberant outlets is the former Ossington Coffee Tavern, a temperance palace built by a Victorian viscountess to encourage non-alcoholic nights out. It was not a success despite its prime riverside setting and closed after just seven years, a fate which has recently befallen the Zizzi's restaurant occupying the ground floor. The message frozen on its chalkboard is "Book Now For Mother's Day", but alas Constance's hospitality bonanza was never realised.

The river crossing carrying the former A1 is called Trent Bridge - not that one - and is rather older than its maximal chain of Roman numerals would suggest. It leads to the lesser side of town where the cattlemarket and enormous sugar factory are located, and also to a decent-sized riverside park. Just upstream is Newark Town Lock, a large cut built for busier times, overlooked by a bloke from the Canal & River Trust on duty in case any craft might perhaps want to pass through. And downstream by Waitrose is the town's second station, the humbler quainter one with hourly trains to Leicester and Grimsby, not capital connections to King's Cross and Edinburgh. It's named after the substantial fortification that overlooks everything in this paragraph, the much transformed Newark Castle.

It's been here since the 12th century, and in the early 13th was the site of a monarch's demise. King John arrived here sick after a calamitous journey across The Wash, his overnight passing traditionally blamed on poisoned plums or a "surfeit of peaches". Newark was besieged three times during the Civil War, after which the Parliamentarians slighted the castle but never finished the job, leaving the gatehouse and a thick curtain wall to rise high above the river. Victorian restoration means what's left looks a lot more complete than it originally was, but the ruins form a most expressive backdrop and can be freely explored during a nice walk in the gardens. The best view is out of the largest bay window looking upstream towards the town lock... Newark, on Trent.

The LNER posts: Stevenage → PeterboroughGranthamNewarkRetford → Doncaster → YorkDarlingtonDurhamNewcastle

<< click for Newer posts

click for Older Posts >>

click to return to the main page

...or read more in my monthly archives
Jan21  Feb21  Mar21  Apr21  May21  Jun21  Jul21  Aug21  Sep21  Oct21
Jan20  Feb20  Mar20  Apr20  May20  Jun20  Jul20  Aug20  Sep20  Oct20  Nov20  Dec20
Jan19  Feb19  Mar19  Apr19  May19  Jun19  Jul19  Aug19  Sep19  Oct19  Nov19  Dec19
Jan18  Feb18  Mar18  Apr18  May18  Jun18  Jul18  Aug18  Sep18  Oct18  Nov18  Dec18
Jan17  Feb17  Mar17  Apr17  May17  Jun17  Jul17  Aug17  Sep17  Oct17  Nov17  Dec17
Jan16  Feb16  Mar16  Apr16  May16  Jun16  Jul16  Aug16  Sep16  Oct16  Nov16  Dec16
Jan15  Feb15  Mar15  Apr15  May15  Jun15  Jul15  Aug15  Sep15  Oct15  Nov15  Dec15
Jan14  Feb14  Mar14  Apr14  May14  Jun14  Jul14  Aug14  Sep14  Oct14  Nov14  Dec14
Jan13  Feb13  Mar13  Apr13  May13  Jun13  Jul13  Aug13  Sep13  Oct13  Nov13  Dec13
Jan12  Feb12  Mar12  Apr12  May12  Jun12  Jul12  Aug12  Sep12  Oct12  Nov12  Dec12
Jan11  Feb11  Mar11  Apr11  May11  Jun11  Jul11  Aug11  Sep11  Oct11  Nov11  Dec11
Jan10  Feb10  Mar10  Apr10  May10  Jun10  Jul10  Aug10  Sep10  Oct10  Nov10  Dec10 
Jan09  Feb09  Mar09  Apr09  May09  Jun09  Jul09  Aug09  Sep09  Oct09  Nov09  Dec09
Jan08  Feb08  Mar08  Apr08  May08  Jun08  Jul08  Aug08  Sep08  Oct08  Nov08  Dec08
Jan07  Feb07  Mar07  Apr07  May07  Jun07  Jul07  Aug07  Sep07  Oct07  Nov07  Dec07
Jan06  Feb06  Mar06  Apr06  May06  Jun06  Jul06  Aug06  Sep06  Oct06  Nov06  Dec06
Jan05  Feb05  Mar05  Apr05  May05  Jun05  Jul05  Aug05  Sep05  Oct05  Nov05  Dec05
Jan04  Feb04  Mar04  Apr04  May04  Jun04  Jul04  Aug04  Sep04  Oct04  Nov04  Dec04
Jan03  Feb03  Mar03  Apr03  May03  Jun03  Jul03  Aug03  Sep03  Oct03  Nov03  Dec03
 Jan02  Feb02  Mar02  Apr02  May02  Jun02  Jul02 Aug02  Sep02  Oct02  Nov02  Dec02 

eXTReMe Tracker
jack of diamonds
Life viewed from London E3

» email me
» follow me on twitter
» follow the blog on Twitter
» follow the blog on RSS

» my flickr photostream

twenty blogs
ian visits
blue witch
the great wen
edith's streets
spitalfields life
in the aquarium
round the island
wanstead meteo
christopher fowler
bus and train user
ruth's coastal walk
the ladies who bus
round the rails we go
london reconnections
dirty modern scoundrel
from the murky depths

quick reference features
Things to do in Outer London
Things to do outside London
Inner London toilet map
The DG Tour of Britain

read the archive
Oct21  Sep21
Aug21  Jul21  Jun21  May21
Apr21  Mar21  Feb21  Jan21
Dec20  Nov20  Oct20  Sep20
Aug20  Jul20  Jun20  May20
Apr20  Mar20  Feb20  Jan20
Dec19  Nov19  Oct19  Sep19
Aug19  Jul19  Jun19  May19
Apr19  Mar19  Feb19  Jan19
Dec18  Nov18  Oct18  Sep18
Aug18  Jul18  Jun18  May18
Apr18  Mar18  Feb18  Jan18
Dec17  Nov17  Oct17  Sep17
Aug17  Jul17  Jun17  May17
Apr17  Mar17  Feb17  Jan17
Dec16  Nov16  Oct16  Sep16
Aug16  Jul16  Jun16  May16
Apr16  Mar16  Feb16  Jan16
Dec15  Nov15  Oct15  Sep15
Aug15  Jul15  Jun15  May15
Apr15  Mar15  Feb15  Jan15
Dec14  Nov14  Oct14  Sep14
Aug14  Jul14  Jun14  May14
Apr14  Mar14  Feb14  Jan14
Dec13  Nov13  Oct13  Sep13
Aug13  Jul13  Jun13  May13
Apr13  Mar13  Feb13  Jan13
Dec12  Nov12  Oct12  Sep12
Aug12  Jul12  Jun12  May12
Apr12  Mar12  Feb12  Jan12
Dec11  Nov11  Oct11  Sep11
Aug11  Jul11  Jun11  May11
Apr11  Mar11  Feb11  Jan11
Dec10  Nov10  Oct10  Sep10
Aug10  Jul10  Jun10  May10
Apr10  Mar10  Feb10  Jan10
Dec09  Nov09  Oct09  Sep09
Aug09  Jul09  Jun09  May09
Apr09  Mar09  Feb09  Jan09
Dec08  Nov08  Oct08  Sep08
Aug08  Jul08  Jun08  May08
Apr08  Mar08  Feb08  Jan08
Dec07  Nov07  Oct07  Sep07
Aug07  Jul07  Jun07  May07
Apr07  Mar07  Feb07  Jan07
Dec06  Nov06  Oct06  Sep06
Aug06  Jul06  Jun06  May06
Apr06  Mar06  Feb06  Jan06
Dec05  Nov05  Oct05  Sep05
Aug05  Jul05  Jun05  May05
Apr05  Mar05  Feb05  Jan05
Dec04  Nov04  Oct04  Sep04
Aug04  Jul04  Jun04  May04
Apr04  Mar04  Feb04  Jan04
Dec03  Nov03  Oct03  Sep03
Aug03  Jul03  Jun03  May03
Apr03  Mar03  Feb03  Jan03
Dec02  Nov02  Oct02  Sep02
back to main page

the diamond geezer index
2020 2019 2018 2017 2016
2015 2014 2013 2012 2011
2010 2009 2008 2007 2006
2005 2004 2003 2002

my special London features
a-z of london museums
E3 - local history month
greenwich meridian (N)
greenwich meridian (S)
the real eastenders
london's lost rivers
olympic park 2007
great british roads
oranges & lemons
random boroughs
bow road station
high street 2012
river westbourne
trafalgar square
capital numbers
east london line
lea valley walk
olympics 2005
regent's canal
square routes
silver jubilee
unlost rivers
cube routes
Herbert Dip
capital ring
river fleet

ten of my favourite posts
the seven ages of blog
my new Z470xi mobile
five equations of blog
the dome of doom
chemical attraction
quality & risk
london 2102
single life
april fool

ten sets of lovely photos
my "most interesting" photos
london 2012 olympic zone
harris and the hebrides
betjeman's metro-land
marking the meridian
tracing the river fleet
london's lost rivers
inside the gherkin
seven sisters

just surfed in?
here's where to find...
diamond geezers
flash mob #1  #2  #3  #4
ben schott's miscellany
london underground
watch with mother
cigarette warnings
digital time delay
wheelie suitcases
war of the worlds
transit of venus
top of the pops
old buckenham
ladybird books
acorn antiques
digital watches
outer hebrides
olympics 2012
school dinners
pet shop boys
west wycombe
bletchley park
george orwell
big breakfast
clapton pond
san francisco
children's tv
east enders
trunk roads
little britain
credit cards
jury service
big brother
jubilee line
number 1s
titan arum
doctor who
blue peter
peter pan
feng shui
leap year
bbc three
vision on
ID cards