Walk the Olympic Park (4) the Bow Back Rivers 40 photographs here
Most valleys have one river, maybe two. The Lower Lea Valley has at least ten. There are waterways of all different lengths and sizes - some narrow, some broad, some natural, some artificial, some sweeping, some stunted, but all characterful. The smaller rivers are threaded tributaries of the River Lea, linked to one another at both ends, which makes for a fascinating intertwined network of watery goodness. And perfect for a signposted "circular" riverside ramble - the Bow Back Rivers Walk - conceived 1999, half-closed 2005, eradicated 2007.
Let's begin this two-kilometre stroll at the City Mill Lock on Blaker Road, an unexpectedwatery vista beside the ugly reality of Stratford High Street. At Otter Close a triangular estate of apartment blocks bites deep into the Olympic Park like a sharpened fang. All the surrounding land is earmarked for essential security screening facilities, but these apartments have somehow survived compulsory purchase destruction. A path leads north along the City Mill River to the Greenway, where a secret staircase leads down to dragonfly level at the water's edge. Take the tunnel to your right, beneath the sewer, emerging into a shielded greenenclave around a reedy stagnant inlet. Standing here you could be lost to the world, at least until a DLR train rumbles over the next bridge and all the passengers look down wondering what the hell you're doing here.
The rest of the City Mill River towpath provides a walk of contrasts. To your right a bush-covered fence screens off what appears to be an area of open wilderness. It used to be, until recently, but then the bulldozers moved in to clear the site leaving acres of sterile wasteland. This long strip of former woodland will form the main pedestrian route through the Olympic Park, but for now it remains inaccessible brownfield. Meanwhile, on the opposite bank of the river, there's an alternative view of the Marshgate Lane industrial estate from the rear. The path passes brick warehouses and gleaming silver silos. It continues past a scrapyard with its own rowing boat and a quarter mile longtumbledownshed. An angry unshutuppable alsatian patrols the riverbank, incensed that you've dared encroach on his private domain. Expect considerably better security in 2012 when the Olympic Stadium touches down precisely here. For now the view remains distinctly lowrise, and unexpectedlyphotogenic.
A ramp leads up from the City Mill River to the top of Marshgate Lane, and then it's just a few steps along the road to start the return journey down a parallel waterway. This is the Waterworks River, which boasts one of the most temporary footpaths in East London. Riverside access was opened up in 1999 when British Waterways stepped in to clear vegetation from the river's western bank. The path was made fully wheelchair accessible... apart from a single step over a drainage pipe which meant that disabled visitors could only get 90% of the way down before having to turn round and retrace their steps. The route was never popular, never busy, and maybe that's why the gates at both ends were firmly locked a couple of years ago. The footpath has since gone to rack and ruin, with two summers' vegetation allowed to run rampant, and anyone attempting the signposted circular walk has been sorely disappointed. What a waste of money, and what a sad loss of such a glorious backwater secret.
Until a couple of months ago. All it took was a couple of bent-apart bars in the locked gate and suddenly the Waterworks river was accessible again. Not for wheelchairs, admittedly - they'd have been stymied by the fallen trees, discarded kitchen sinks and shoulder high brambles. But any able-bodied explorer with a sense of adventure and sufficient protective clothing could have fought their way through this impromptu urban jungle. And what a treat for those who made the effort. Dog roses and convolvulus aplenty, magpies and moorhens on the wing, ladybirds clustered on untrampled nettles, and the feeling that this was your own private nature reserve unseen by human eyes. Apart from those truck drivers on the other side of the river, obviously, busy building up the foundations of a massive Olympic roadbridge.
Halfway along the footpath (don't worry, that's the worst of the impenetrable stuff over), a ramp leads up to the pedestrian entrance to Thornton Fields railway sidings. It's here, beneath gantries and criss-crossed power cables, that unwanted mainline trains are stored between the morning and evening peaks. But they'll be moving out too next year, to replacement sidings in Leyton, because the 2012 hamburger stalls have got to go somewhere. Back on the riverbank the skyline is dominated by a brand new apartment block - 18 storeys of pure white curviness. This is the Icona building, granted planning permission before the Olympic bid was won, and whose trademark red, yellow and green balconies will no doubt become a familiar feature of 2012 TV coverage. But it's still the glorious combination of overgrown footpath, tidal waterway and forbidding warehouses that makes this last stretch down to the Greenway a hidden treat. It's just a shame there was so little time to experience it.
Walk the Olympic Park (4)
Most valleys have one river, maybe two. The Lower Lea Valley has at least ten. There are waterways of all different lengths and sizes - some narrow, some broad, some natural, some artificial, some sweeping, some stunted, but all characterful. The smaller rivers are threaded tributaries of the River Lea, linked to one another at both ends, which makes for a fascinating intertwined network of watery goodness. And perfect for a signposted "circular" riverside ramble - the Bow Back Rivers Walk - conceived 1999, half-closed 2005, eradicated 2007.
The rest of the City Mill River towpath provides a walk of contrasts. To your right a bush-covered fence screens off what appears to be an area of open wilderness. It used to be, until recently, but then the bulldozers moved in to clear the site leaving acres of sterile wasteland. This long strip of former woodland will form the main pedestrian route through the Olympic Park, but for now it remains inaccessible brownfield. Meanwhile, on the opposite bank of the river, there's an alternative view of the Marshgate Lane industrial estate from the rear. The path passes brick warehouses and gleaming silver silos. It continues past a scrapyard with its own rowing boat and a quarter mile long tumbledown shed. An angry unshutuppable alsatian patrols the riverbank, incensed that you've dared encroach on his private domain. Expect considerably better security in 2012 when the Olympic Stadium touches down precisely here. For now the view remains distinctly lowrise, and unexpectedly photogenic.
Halfway along the footpath (don't worry, that's the worst of the impenetrable stuff over), a ramp leads up to the pedestrian entrance to Thornton Fields railway sidings. It's here, beneath gantries and criss-crossed power cables, that unwanted mainline trains are stored between the morning and evening peaks. But they'll be moving out too next year, to replacement sidings in Leyton, because the 2012 hamburger stalls have got to go somewhere. Back on the riverbank the skyline is dominated by a brand new apartment block - 18 storeys of pure white curviness. This is the Icona building, granted planning permission before the Olympic bid was won, and whose trademark red, yellow and green balconies will no doubt become a familiar feature of 2012 TV coverage. But it's still the glorious combination of overgrown footpath, tidal waterway and forbidding warehouses that makes this last stretch down to the Greenway a hidden treat. It's just a shame there was so little time to experience it.
