diamond geezer

 Sunday, January 11, 2015

Gold Card day out: LICHFIELD

Now that the Gold Card discount zone has been extended, for those of us with annual season tickets, a large chunk of the Midlands and East Anglia is suddenly much cheaper to get to. Pick your train and time right and you can even reach Birmingham for under £20 without the need to book anything in advance.

So, Lichfield... a cathedral city in south Staffordshire, just north of Birmingham, and 116 miles from London. It's on the West Coast mainline so has a decent service from London, travelling via London Midland rather than Virgin Trains. The fastest trains to Lichfield Trent Valley take only an hour and a half, which is damned impressive for such a distance. From there a swift change and one more stop gets you to Lichfield City, which is better placed for the town centre, so is the best station to ask for on your ticket. An off-peak return's £37, which we Gold Carders get at one third off (ie nearer £25) so long as you travel after 0930 or at the weekend. But there's also a Super Off-Peak ticket, which costs even less, so long as you get the terms and conditions right. Departure from London must be after 1030, even on a Saturday, and you have to avoid a return train leaving between 1630 and 1930. But that still allows you to reach Lichfield before noon, and depart after four, which is plenty long enough to see the major highlights. And for £17.15, a bargain.

Lichfield Cathedral
Before Birmingham took the mantle of Midlands top dog, responsibility was held (at least briefly) by See of Lichfield. Bishop Chad based himself here in the long-ago year of 669, while the Cathedral itself began as an early Norman affair. The building suffered enormously during the Civil War, substantially demolished during three sieges by Parliamentary fire. But reconstruction was swift, and restoration under Sir George Gilbert Scott a Gothic triumph, maintaining the three trademark spires as an unmissable landmark on the local skyline. Good news - entrance is free. Perhaps less good news - you can't get in (outside service times) without passing a cassocked official stood by a strategically placed table making subtle noises about donations. The building has the feel of a very typical cathedral, perhaps not especially outstanding, but with a lovely wholeness all the same. All the stained glass windows at the far end are in the process of being restored and replaced, so the view from the High Altar is mostly scaffolding at present, but they'll be sorted soon and a rededication service is planned. Tucked in one corner is the white marble sculpture of The Sleeping Children ("oh just Google it", according to the verger on the door). The cafe's outside in the Close, which is also archetypally attractive, and adjacent to which is...

Erasmus Darwin House
You may know his grandson Charles much better, but Erasmus was Lichfield's go-to polymath and aesthete in the 18th century. Ostensibly a local doctor, though with skills of national renown, he also found time to be a skilled botanist, inventor and poet. As a member of Birmingham's illustrious Lunar Society his scientific acquaintances included Joseph Priestley and Josiah Wedgwood, even on one occasion Benjamin Franklin. And his life is explored in some detail in his former Lichfield home, now a museum (open Thursdays to Sundays, should you come visiting). Again admittance is free, but expect to be nudged even more than at the cathedral to consider leaving an entrance-fee-sized donation. Mocked-up inventions on display include a horizontal windmill and an automatic water closet, and there's also a room focusing on Zoonomia, Erasmus's seminal biological treatise which hinted at the theory of evolution long before young Charles clarified everything. An audio tour is available, though on fairly basic equipment requiring an awkward amount of fast-forwarding if you insist on walking round in the wrong order. But by the end of your visit you'll know a lot more about Lichfield's second most famous son, the first being...

Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum
England's foremost lexicographer was born in 1709 in a large townhouse overlooking the Market Square. Samuel Johnson grew up as the son of a bookseller, so the words thing was always there. A bright boy, his time at Oxford was cut short through lack of financial resources so he threw himself into journalism, schoolteaching and translation. A move to London eventually led to a commission to compile a dictionary, and it's for this mammoth task, and his witty repartee, that Doctor Johnson is best known. The museum tells his story well, and with some degree of charm, helped not a little by the period nature of the accommodation. There are twisty stairs to climb, and restored rooms to explore, and plenty of paraphernalia in cabinets and on the walls. On the first floor is a not-too-long video to watch, while a couple of well-thumbed copies of his dictionary are available to flick through upstairs. Most charming of all, the first room downstairs is a proper second hand bookshop, well worth a browse, and entirely appropriate for both the great man and his childhood home. If you fancy a look around without actually visiting, you'll likely enjoy this virtual tour. And finally...

Lichfield Heritage Centre
Not all of the spires on the skyline belong to the cathedral, one is that of St Mary's parish church by the Market Square. The altar end survives as a small chapel, but the remainder of this large building has been filled with a different kind of attraction. In the former nave are a gift shop, the city's tourist information centre and fairly bland cafe. Pay some money and you can climb the stairs to a museum which tells The Lichfield Story - the usual sequential narrative from the Celts to the present day. It's packed with detail, in a town that's seen more than its fair share of history, but also a little low key and I hoped I'd enjoy the experience more. I also found it most odd walking around floors inside the body of a church, but there is a bonus to this, which is the (occasional) availability of tours up the spire to look out across the whole of Lichfield. I may not have given the city a large allocation of my time, but there was plenty to cram in, and back in London again by six, result. [3 photos]


<< click for Newer posts

click for Older Posts >>


click to return to the main page


...or read more in my monthly archives
Jan24  Feb24  Mar24
Jan23  Feb23  Mar23  Apr23  May23  Jun23  Jul23  Aug23  Sep23  Oct23  Nov23  Dec23
Jan22  Feb22  Mar22  Apr22  May22  Jun22  Jul22  Aug22  Sep22  Oct22  Nov22  Dec22
Jan21  Feb21  Mar21  Apr21  May21  Jun21  Jul21  Aug21  Sep21  Oct21  Nov21  Dec21
Jan20  Feb20  Mar20  Apr20  May20  Jun20  Jul20  Aug20  Sep20  Oct20  Nov20  Dec20
Jan19  Feb19  Mar19  Apr19  May19  Jun19  Jul19  Aug19  Sep19  Oct19  Nov19  Dec19
Jan18  Feb18  Mar18  Apr18  May18  Jun18  Jul18  Aug18  Sep18  Oct18  Nov18  Dec18
Jan17  Feb17  Mar17  Apr17  May17  Jun17  Jul17  Aug17  Sep17  Oct17  Nov17  Dec17
Jan16  Feb16  Mar16  Apr16  May16  Jun16  Jul16  Aug16  Sep16  Oct16  Nov16  Dec16
Jan15  Feb15  Mar15  Apr15  May15  Jun15  Jul15  Aug15  Sep15  Oct15  Nov15  Dec15
Jan14  Feb14  Mar14  Apr14  May14  Jun14  Jul14  Aug14  Sep14  Oct14  Nov14  Dec14
Jan13  Feb13  Mar13  Apr13  May13  Jun13  Jul13  Aug13  Sep13  Oct13  Nov13  Dec13
Jan12  Feb12  Mar12  Apr12  May12  Jun12  Jul12  Aug12  Sep12  Oct12  Nov12  Dec12
Jan11  Feb11  Mar11  Apr11  May11  Jun11  Jul11  Aug11  Sep11  Oct11  Nov11  Dec11
Jan10  Feb10  Mar10  Apr10  May10  Jun10  Jul10  Aug10  Sep10  Oct10  Nov10  Dec10 
Jan09  Feb09  Mar09  Apr09  May09  Jun09  Jul09  Aug09  Sep09  Oct09  Nov09  Dec09
Jan08  Feb08  Mar08  Apr08  May08  Jun08  Jul08  Aug08  Sep08  Oct08  Nov08  Dec08
Jan07  Feb07  Mar07  Apr07  May07  Jun07  Jul07  Aug07  Sep07  Oct07  Nov07  Dec07
Jan06  Feb06  Mar06  Apr06  May06  Jun06  Jul06  Aug06  Sep06  Oct06  Nov06  Dec06
Jan05  Feb05  Mar05  Apr05  May05  Jun05  Jul05  Aug05  Sep05  Oct05  Nov05  Dec05
Jan04  Feb04  Mar04  Apr04  May04  Jun04  Jul04  Aug04  Sep04  Oct04  Nov04  Dec04
Jan03  Feb03  Mar03  Apr03  May03  Jun03  Jul03  Aug03  Sep03  Oct03  Nov03  Dec03
 Jan02  Feb02  Mar02  Apr02  May02  Jun02  Jul02 Aug02  Sep02  Oct02  Nov02  Dec02 

jack of diamonds
Life viewed from London E3

» email me
» follow me on twitter
» follow the blog on Twitter
» follow the blog on RSS

» my flickr photostream

twenty blogs
our bow
arseblog
ian visits
londonist
broken tv
blue witch
on london
the great wen
edith's streets
spitalfields life
linkmachinego
round the island
wanstead meteo
christopher fowler
the greenwich wire
bus and train user
ruth's coastal walk
round the rails we go
london reconnections
from the murky depths

quick reference features
Things to do in Outer London
Things to do outside London
Inner London toilet map
20 years of blog series
The DG Tour of Britain
London's most...

read the archive
Mar24  Feb24  Jan24
Dec23  Nov23  Oct23  Sep23
Aug23  Jul23  Jun23  May23
Apr23  Mar23  Feb23  Jan23
Dec22  Nov22  Oct22  Sep22
Aug22  Jul22  Jun22  May22
Apr22  Mar22  Feb22  Jan22
Dec21  Nov21  Oct21  Sep21
Aug21  Jul21  Jun21  May21
Apr21  Mar21  Feb21  Jan21
Dec20  Nov20  Oct20  Sep20
Aug20  Jul20  Jun20  May20
Apr20  Mar20  Feb20  Jan20
Dec19  Nov19  Oct19  Sep19
Aug19  Jul19  Jun19  May19
Apr19  Mar19  Feb19  Jan19
Dec18  Nov18  Oct18  Sep18
Aug18  Jul18  Jun18  May18
Apr18  Mar18  Feb18  Jan18
Dec17  Nov17  Oct17  Sep17
Aug17  Jul17  Jun17  May17
Apr17  Mar17  Feb17  Jan17
Dec16  Nov16  Oct16  Sep16
Aug16  Jul16  Jun16  May16
Apr16  Mar16  Feb16  Jan16
Dec15  Nov15  Oct15  Sep15
Aug15  Jul15  Jun15  May15
Apr15  Mar15  Feb15  Jan15
Dec14  Nov14  Oct14  Sep14
Aug14  Jul14  Jun14  May14
Apr14  Mar14  Feb14  Jan14
Dec13  Nov13  Oct13  Sep13
Aug13  Jul13  Jun13  May13
Apr13  Mar13  Feb13  Jan13
Dec12  Nov12  Oct12  Sep12
Aug12  Jul12  Jun12  May12
Apr12  Mar12  Feb12  Jan12
Dec11  Nov11  Oct11  Sep11
Aug11  Jul11  Jun11  May11
Apr11  Mar11  Feb11  Jan11
Dec10  Nov10  Oct10  Sep10
Aug10  Jul10  Jun10  May10
Apr10  Mar10  Feb10  Jan10
Dec09  Nov09  Oct09  Sep09
Aug09  Jul09  Jun09  May09
Apr09  Mar09  Feb09  Jan09
Dec08  Nov08  Oct08  Sep08
Aug08  Jul08  Jun08  May08
Apr08  Mar08  Feb08  Jan08
Dec07  Nov07  Oct07  Sep07
Aug07  Jul07  Jun07  May07
Apr07  Mar07  Feb07  Jan07
Dec06  Nov06  Oct06  Sep06
Aug06  Jul06  Jun06  May06
Apr06  Mar06  Feb06  Jan06
Dec05  Nov05  Oct05  Sep05
Aug05  Jul05  Jun05  May05
Apr05  Mar05  Feb05  Jan05
Dec04  Nov04  Oct04  Sep04
Aug04  Jul04  Jun04  May04
Apr04  Mar04  Feb04  Jan04
Dec03  Nov03  Oct03  Sep03
Aug03  Jul03  Jun03  May03
Apr03  Mar03  Feb03  Jan03
Dec02  Nov02  Oct02  Sep02
back to main page

the diamond geezer index
2023 2022
2021 2020 2019 2018 2017
2016 2015 2014 2013 2012
2011 2010 2009 2008 2007
2006 2005 2004 2003 2002

my special London features
a-z of london museums
E3 - local history month
greenwich meridian (N)
greenwich meridian (S)
the real eastenders
london's lost rivers
olympic park 2007
great british roads
oranges & lemons
random boroughs
bow road station
high street 2012
river westbourne
trafalgar square
capital numbers
east london line
lea valley walk
olympics 2005
regent's canal
square routes
silver jubilee
unlost rivers
cube routes
Herbert Dip
metro-land
capital ring
river fleet
piccadilly
bakerloo

ten of my favourite posts
the seven ages of blog
my new Z470xi mobile
five equations of blog
the dome of doom
chemical attraction
quality & risk
london 2102
single life
boredom
april fool

ten sets of lovely photos
my "most interesting" photos
london 2012 olympic zone
harris and the hebrides
betjeman's metro-land
marking the meridian
tracing the river fleet
london's lost rivers
inside the gherkin
seven sisters
iceland

just surfed in?
here's where to find...
diamond geezers
flash mob #1  #2  #3  #4
ben schott's miscellany
london underground
watch with mother
cigarette warnings
digital time delay
wheelie suitcases
war of the worlds
transit of venus
top of the pops
old buckenham
ladybird books
acorn antiques
digital watches
outer hebrides
olympics 2012
school dinners
pet shop boys
west wycombe
bletchley park
george orwell
big breakfast
clapton pond
san francisco
thunderbirds
routemaster
children's tv
east enders
trunk roads
amsterdam
little britain
credit cards
jury service
big brother
jubilee line
number 1s
titan arum
typewriters
doctor who
coronation
comments
blue peter
matchgirls
hurricanes
buzzwords
brookside
monopoly
peter pan
starbucks
feng shui
leap year
manbags
bbc three
vision on
piccadilly
meridian
concorde
wembley
islington
ID cards
bedtime
freeview
beckton
blogads
eclipses
letraset
arsenal
sitcoms
gherkin
calories
everest
muffins
sudoku
camilla
london
ceefax
robbie
becks
dome
BBC2
paris
lotto
118
itv