diamond geezer

 Wednesday, April 05, 2017

National Army Museum
Location: Royal Hospital Road, Chelsea, SW3 4HT [map]
Open: 10am - 5:30pm
Admission: free
Brief summary: military history/subliminal recruitment
Current state: refreshed and refurbished
Website: www.nam.ac.uk
Social media: Twitter/Facebook/Instagram
Time to set aside: about an hour



The National Army Museum was opened by the Queen in 1971, and seems to have stayed mostly off-radar ever since, despite its size. In fact it's located 10 minutes walk away from Sloane Square station, immediately adjacent to the Royal Hospital where the Chelsea Pensioners live, on a quiet road most Londoners would never stumble down. I last visited in 2009 and gave the place a mostly positive write-up, even if some of the exhibits felt a little outdated. Three years ago the entire building was closed for a major refit - specifically a complete internal gutting and a rethink in the way exhibits would be displayed. Now that long refurbishment is finally over and the museum reopened last week, just in time for the Easter holidays, and the NAM is back on-radar again.

It all looks rather different when you arrive. The brutalist building has had its ground and first floor mini-windows ripped out and replaced by welcoming sheets of glass, through which those sipping coffee can now gaze. The armoured vehicles, cannons and flagpoles that used to sit outside have been removed, and the concrete bollards have been replaced and upgraded in favour of more defensive flower beds. Most crucially the entrance is no longer an apologetic door up the side but a swish automatic portal facing the road, considerably more welcoming than before. It all looks even more different inside.

The museum now has one of those Wow! moments when you walk in, much like the new Design Museum in South Kensington, and for pretty much the same reason. A large proportion of the previous interior has been removed to create a sweeping multi-floor atrium, providing a colourful panorama from basement up to third floor level, plus a large lobby containing only the bag check and the information desk. If you haven't been before you'll be impressed. But if you remember how things were before, this might be the moment you start thinking "hang on, this corner of the building was full of gallery space before, and now it's mostly air".



There are five galleries, each themed, whereas previously the museum arranged its exhibits chronologically. Before the upgrade you'd start at the bottom and work your way up from 1066 on the ground floor to the 21st century at the top, with the army's story told campaign by campaign along a series of gentling sloping corridors and warren-like galleries. The English Civil War, the American War of Independence, the two World Wars and even the Falkland Islands all got lengthy mentions, and I remember learning quite a lot by reading all the panels on the way round. Those who prefer their information on the lighter side will be relieved to know there's none of that fusty, comprehensive, verbose vibe here any more.

The first fresh gallery is called Soldier, and was my favourite of the five, providing insight into the life of a conscript from signing up to passing out. A lot of emphasis is placed on camaraderie and the collective experience, rather than actually fighting, because that's what the majority of a soldier's life is like. Quotations from a handful of ordinary soldiers are scattered throughout, not all of them positive, while the presence of female recruits appears to get remarkably short shrift, both here and throughout the rest of the building. The highlight is probably the virtual drill sergeant who puts up-for-it visitors through their paces, then gets shirty with those who wander away.

The Army gallery tells the story of the evolution of the ground-based military from the 17th century to the present, in skimmy detail, with large infographics used to cover some walls, and a brief selection of uniforms in glass cases to fill the space within. As for the Battle gallery, this takes a similar approach and skips lightly over campaigns which in the previous museum would have merited considerable exposition. Not even World War Two merits much of a display, although there is a cutaway tank to climb inside and some camo gear to try on, perhaps with a military selfie in mind. I was pleased to see the enormous Siborne scale model of the Battle of Waterloo still given due prominence, its undulating fields and tin soldiers now behind glass, and with a short (unengaging) video about tactics projected on the far side. Napoleon's horse is in the cabinet alongside, or rather its skeleton, though you may have to hunt for the label which reveals how amazing this exhibit is.



Up at the top of the building, the Society gallery takes a rather different approach and considers the army as "a cultural and military force that impacts on our customs, technologies and values". This is a good excuse for a lot of posters and newspaper front covers, plus a few artefacts from Action Men to scout badges, even a juke box with a selection of of pro- and anti-war songs. As for the remembrance corner with poppies, this is sensitively done and by no means jingoistic, indeed none of the museum is, with overt mention of "heroes" muted throughout. The Insight gallery promises a global perspective on British military action, but instead comes across as a few magnificent artefacts with not much of a tale attached. And yes there's still an art gallery, in a temporary exhibition smartly entitled War Paint, but whose paintings are rather dimly lit and merit only a cursory wander.

The former coffee bar has been significantly upgraded and is now a large airy cafe serving "tasty British fare". I'd say it covers an equivalent area to the entire 18th century in the former museum, which may not be ideal, but offers tea drinkers, cake-grazers and soup-slurpers a pleasant place to perch. Down in the basement is an educational area, already well used, while behind the shop is the only activity you have to pay for - PlayBase - which offers hour-long sessions to the under nines. The presence of an assault course is something you might expect, whereas the Cookhouse, Quartermaster store and Fieldcraft zones are part of a more inclusive message that it's fun for everyone in the army, because 2030's recruits might just be here.

On leaving I was intrigued to note that my 2017 visit had lasted only half as long as my 2009 visit, and not just because of the loss of internal floor space. I could best conclude that you'll enjoy the National Army Museum most if you don't remember what was here previously, because it looks proper impressive now, and an all-round immersive experience to boot, plus it's much better suited to younger visitors. But what's on display is more shallow and snippety than before, focused more on the visual than the written word, and more about the big picture than strategic detail. How very 21st century to prioritise the footsoldier over the expert.

» Further reviews: Ian Visits, Londonist, The Guardian


<< click for Newer posts

click for Older Posts >>


click to return to the main page


...or read more in my monthly archives
Jan24  Feb24  Mar24
Jan23  Feb23  Mar23  Apr23  May23  Jun23  Jul23  Aug23  Sep23  Oct23  Nov23  Dec23
Jan22  Feb22  Mar22  Apr22  May22  Jun22  Jul22  Aug22  Sep22  Oct22  Nov22  Dec22
Jan21  Feb21  Mar21  Apr21  May21  Jun21  Jul21  Aug21  Sep21  Oct21  Nov21  Dec21
Jan20  Feb20  Mar20  Apr20  May20  Jun20  Jul20  Aug20  Sep20  Oct20  Nov20  Dec20
Jan19  Feb19  Mar19  Apr19  May19  Jun19  Jul19  Aug19  Sep19  Oct19  Nov19  Dec19
Jan18  Feb18  Mar18  Apr18  May18  Jun18  Jul18  Aug18  Sep18  Oct18  Nov18  Dec18
Jan17  Feb17  Mar17  Apr17  May17  Jun17  Jul17  Aug17  Sep17  Oct17  Nov17  Dec17
Jan16  Feb16  Mar16  Apr16  May16  Jun16  Jul16  Aug16  Sep16  Oct16  Nov16  Dec16
Jan15  Feb15  Mar15  Apr15  May15  Jun15  Jul15  Aug15  Sep15  Oct15  Nov15  Dec15
Jan14  Feb14  Mar14  Apr14  May14  Jun14  Jul14  Aug14  Sep14  Oct14  Nov14  Dec14
Jan13  Feb13  Mar13  Apr13  May13  Jun13  Jul13  Aug13  Sep13  Oct13  Nov13  Dec13
Jan12  Feb12  Mar12  Apr12  May12  Jun12  Jul12  Aug12  Sep12  Oct12  Nov12  Dec12
Jan11  Feb11  Mar11  Apr11  May11  Jun11  Jul11  Aug11  Sep11  Oct11  Nov11  Dec11
Jan10  Feb10  Mar10  Apr10  May10  Jun10  Jul10  Aug10  Sep10  Oct10  Nov10  Dec10 
Jan09  Feb09  Mar09  Apr09  May09  Jun09  Jul09  Aug09  Sep09  Oct09  Nov09  Dec09
Jan08  Feb08  Mar08  Apr08  May08  Jun08  Jul08  Aug08  Sep08  Oct08  Nov08  Dec08
Jan07  Feb07  Mar07  Apr07  May07  Jun07  Jul07  Aug07  Sep07  Oct07  Nov07  Dec07
Jan06  Feb06  Mar06  Apr06  May06  Jun06  Jul06  Aug06  Sep06  Oct06  Nov06  Dec06
Jan05  Feb05  Mar05  Apr05  May05  Jun05  Jul05  Aug05  Sep05  Oct05  Nov05  Dec05
Jan04  Feb04  Mar04  Apr04  May04  Jun04  Jul04  Aug04  Sep04  Oct04  Nov04  Dec04
Jan03  Feb03  Mar03  Apr03  May03  Jun03  Jul03  Aug03  Sep03  Oct03  Nov03  Dec03
 Jan02  Feb02  Mar02  Apr02  May02  Jun02  Jul02 Aug02  Sep02  Oct02  Nov02  Dec02 

jack of diamonds
Life viewed from London E3

» email me
» follow me on twitter
» follow the blog on Twitter
» follow the blog on RSS

» my flickr photostream

twenty blogs
our bow
arseblog
ian visits
londonist
broken tv
blue witch
on london
the great wen
edith's streets
spitalfields life
linkmachinego
round the island
wanstead meteo
christopher fowler
the greenwich wire
bus and train user
ruth's coastal walk
round the rails we go
london reconnections
from the murky depths

quick reference features
Things to do in Outer London
Things to do outside London
Inner London toilet map
20 years of blog series
The DG Tour of Britain
London's most...

read the archive
Mar24  Feb24  Jan24
Dec23  Nov23  Oct23  Sep23
Aug23  Jul23  Jun23  May23
Apr23  Mar23  Feb23  Jan23
Dec22  Nov22  Oct22  Sep22
Aug22  Jul22  Jun22  May22
Apr22  Mar22  Feb22  Jan22
Dec21  Nov21  Oct21  Sep21
Aug21  Jul21  Jun21  May21
Apr21  Mar21  Feb21  Jan21
Dec20  Nov20  Oct20  Sep20
Aug20  Jul20  Jun20  May20
Apr20  Mar20  Feb20  Jan20
Dec19  Nov19  Oct19  Sep19
Aug19  Jul19  Jun19  May19
Apr19  Mar19  Feb19  Jan19
Dec18  Nov18  Oct18  Sep18
Aug18  Jul18  Jun18  May18
Apr18  Mar18  Feb18  Jan18
Dec17  Nov17  Oct17  Sep17
Aug17  Jul17  Jun17  May17
Apr17  Mar17  Feb17  Jan17
Dec16  Nov16  Oct16  Sep16
Aug16  Jul16  Jun16  May16
Apr16  Mar16  Feb16  Jan16
Dec15  Nov15  Oct15  Sep15
Aug15  Jul15  Jun15  May15
Apr15  Mar15  Feb15  Jan15
Dec14  Nov14  Oct14  Sep14
Aug14  Jul14  Jun14  May14
Apr14  Mar14  Feb14  Jan14
Dec13  Nov13  Oct13  Sep13
Aug13  Jul13  Jun13  May13
Apr13  Mar13  Feb13  Jan13
Dec12  Nov12  Oct12  Sep12
Aug12  Jul12  Jun12  May12
Apr12  Mar12  Feb12  Jan12
Dec11  Nov11  Oct11  Sep11
Aug11  Jul11  Jun11  May11
Apr11  Mar11  Feb11  Jan11
Dec10  Nov10  Oct10  Sep10
Aug10  Jul10  Jun10  May10
Apr10  Mar10  Feb10  Jan10
Dec09  Nov09  Oct09  Sep09
Aug09  Jul09  Jun09  May09
Apr09  Mar09  Feb09  Jan09
Dec08  Nov08  Oct08  Sep08
Aug08  Jul08  Jun08  May08
Apr08  Mar08  Feb08  Jan08
Dec07  Nov07  Oct07  Sep07
Aug07  Jul07  Jun07  May07
Apr07  Mar07  Feb07  Jan07
Dec06  Nov06  Oct06  Sep06
Aug06  Jul06  Jun06  May06
Apr06  Mar06  Feb06  Jan06
Dec05  Nov05  Oct05  Sep05
Aug05  Jul05  Jun05  May05
Apr05  Mar05  Feb05  Jan05
Dec04  Nov04  Oct04  Sep04
Aug04  Jul04  Jun04  May04
Apr04  Mar04  Feb04  Jan04
Dec03  Nov03  Oct03  Sep03
Aug03  Jul03  Jun03  May03
Apr03  Mar03  Feb03  Jan03
Dec02  Nov02  Oct02  Sep02
back to main page

the diamond geezer index
2023 2022
2021 2020 2019 2018 2017
2016 2015 2014 2013 2012
2011 2010 2009 2008 2007
2006 2005 2004 2003 2002

my special London features
a-z of london museums
E3 - local history month
greenwich meridian (N)
greenwich meridian (S)
the real eastenders
london's lost rivers
olympic park 2007
great british roads
oranges & lemons
random boroughs
bow road station
high street 2012
river westbourne
trafalgar square
capital numbers
east london line
lea valley walk
olympics 2005
regent's canal
square routes
silver jubilee
unlost rivers
cube routes
Herbert Dip
metro-land
capital ring
river fleet
piccadilly
bakerloo

ten of my favourite posts
the seven ages of blog
my new Z470xi mobile
five equations of blog
the dome of doom
chemical attraction
quality & risk
london 2102
single life
boredom
april fool

ten sets of lovely photos
my "most interesting" photos
london 2012 olympic zone
harris and the hebrides
betjeman's metro-land
marking the meridian
tracing the river fleet
london's lost rivers
inside the gherkin
seven sisters
iceland

just surfed in?
here's where to find...
diamond geezers
flash mob #1  #2  #3  #4
ben schott's miscellany
london underground
watch with mother
cigarette warnings
digital time delay
wheelie suitcases
war of the worlds
transit of venus
top of the pops
old buckenham
ladybird books
acorn antiques
digital watches
outer hebrides
olympics 2012
school dinners
pet shop boys
west wycombe
bletchley park
george orwell
big breakfast
clapton pond
san francisco
thunderbirds
routemaster
children's tv
east enders
trunk roads
amsterdam
little britain
credit cards
jury service
big brother
jubilee line
number 1s
titan arum
typewriters
doctor who
coronation
comments
blue peter
matchgirls
hurricanes
buzzwords
brookside
monopoly
peter pan
starbucks
feng shui
leap year
manbags
bbc three
vision on
piccadilly
meridian
concorde
wembley
islington
ID cards
bedtime
freeview
beckton
blogads
eclipses
letraset
arsenal
sitcoms
gherkin
calories
everest
muffins
sudoku
camilla
london
ceefax
robbie
becks
dome
BBC2
paris
lotto
118
itv