diamond geezer

 Monday, February 04, 2019

LONDON'S LOST CANALS
Grand Surrey Canal
Camberwell/Peckham → South Bermondsey → Deptford → Rotherhithe (4 miles)


The Grand Surrey Canal Company was formed in 1801 with the intention of linking Rotherhithe to Epsom, maybe Portsmouth, perhaps Southampton. Instead the money ran out by the time they reached Camberwell, and the development of a series of docks at the Rotherhithe end proved a more profitable focus. The canal successfully carried timber and other cargo for over a century until road transport eventually won out and it was sequentially closed, the last boats operating less than 50 years ago. For a fuller history, I recommend this, this eight part series, this, this, this excellent pdf, this, this photo album and this. [1806 map] [1852 map] [1900s map] [1950s map] [2019 map]

Various sections of the Grand Surrey Canal have since become housing, parkland, industrial estates and linear walks, and remain surprisingly traceable. They'd be better as canal, not least for the waterfront development they'd stimulate, but south London threw that advantage away when it filled the lot in. I've attempted to walk the entire canal, as close as I could, starting in Camberwell (and Peckham) and heading for the Thames. Today I'm reporting on the first half of that walk, and yesterday the second.


Addington Wharf - Burgess Park - Glengall Basin



The Grand Surrey Canal reached Camberwell in 1810 and stopped, because to go much further would have required building a lock. Instead a basin was constructed abutting Camberwell Road, and wharves grew up alongside. Just to the south is Addington Square, a gorgeous Georgian enclave in whose first house the canal's engineer Nathaniel Simmons chose to live. Its central garden is currently in snowdrop mode, should you fancy an uncommonly tasteful place to rest before starting your walk, or else there's the cosy Tennis Cafe.

This end of the Grand Surrey Canal was the first to become disused in the 1940s, evolving from cargo channel to dilapidated safety hazard, which eventually led the council to decide to fill it in. The first mile of the canal became the backbone of a new recreational area, Burgess Park, whose construction controversially also involved knocking down several residential streets. Today it's a vast and lovely resource for neighbouring communities, but you can't help thinking it'd've been much more attractive if its water feature hadn't been converted into a straight tarmac path.



One exceptional survivor is a lime kiln dating back to 1816 and positioned a few yards from the former towpath. Barges brought coal and limestone to be burned for three days to create quicklime - a useful chemical when you're in the midst of an Industrial Revolution - and the kiln continued to be fired until 1925. I learned this from a plaque on the excellent Burgess Park Heritage Trail (although the plaque's recently fallen off and probably won't be there much longer). The same group behind the trail's construction are also responsible for the barge artwork in the subway under Wells Way, an otherwise glum underpass which replaced St George's Bridge.



The parish church, former public baths and library are all that remain of the surrounding streets. My 1950s map shows a timber wharf, mineral water works, ironworks and furniture factory along the next stretch, all now grass. But a single footbridge that once spanned the canal between the essence works and the print factory has survived, since renamed the Bridge To Nowhere. Alas it's also now The Bridge For Nobody, having been sealed at both ends to protect the crumbling steps and brickwork, and to prevent potential litigants from falling off. And beyond this the path that used to be the canal continues, unremarkably, until... hang on, we need to relocate.

Peckham Wharf - Surrey Canal Linear Park - Glengall Basin



A second branch of the canal was dug to Peckham in 1826, doubling up commercial opportunities. It launched just off the High Street at the top of Rye Lane, from a basin larger than at Camberwell, surrounded on three sides by wharves and a mill. When the end came the council found themselves with lots of surplus land at the Canal Head, hence you'll now find Peckham's sports centre, millennial square and library here, fortuitously centrally located. The Mountview Academy of Theatre Arts has recently opened on the site of what was once Eagle Wharf, and is very brown, whereas Whitten Timber nextdoor has been trading at this end of the canal since 1935.

Peckham's basin has now been landscaped, for which read blandly grassed over, and forms the start of a kilometre-long linear park/cycleway along the former canal arm. They were a forward-looking bunch around here in the early 1970s. The path wiggles appealingly, in the same way canals don't, along a wooded thread between a lot of postwar flats. And twice it does something marvellous because two 1870s bridges have been perfectly preserved, where the walk/cycleway ducks underneath the road alongside a raised section of cobbled towpath.



The first is Globe Bridge on Commercial Way, with some lovely ironwork, and the choice of walking through at ground or underwater level. Taylor's Bridge at Willowbrook Road is more impressive, being more golden, and aligned on a slant, and retaining ropemarks on the uprights, and with a larger sweep of ex-canal on the approach. Cyclists and joggers take the low road, and my word what a lot of the latter there are if you head through at the weekend. The more adventurous negotiate the upper cobbles, which also has the advantage that you'll stumble upon an original milestone (or half-milestone) confirming that the Thames is 3½ miles distant.

Immediately before the end of the branch the path passes what used to be Glengall Wharf, where in later years the council disgorged refuse into waiting barges, and is now Glengall Wharf Community Garden. Until three years ago the wall supporting the edge of the garden was original, embedded with the footings of loading chutes, but the council decided it was unsightly and the replacement is alas more concrete embankment than heritage feature. At least you can still read about the history of the Peckham branch on an information board here, in a grassy depression in the corner of Burgess Park where the two arms of the canal originally merged.



Glengall Bridge - Cantium Retail Park - Old Kent Road

Here we lose all trace of the Grand Surrey Canal from view. It ran up the side of Bianca Road into a more industrial zone, home to tanneries, abrasive works and of course more timber wharves. Today we find leftover small industrial businesses, microbreweries and the Cantium Retail Park, which Southwark council has its eye on massively redeveloping into flats. Several hidden backstreet pockets have already been levelled, and a new station on the Bakerloo line extension would only kickstart total transformation. For now, hardware hunters in the enormous B&Q on the Old Kent Road might like to know that it was built across the canal's alignment.



Old Kent Road - Verney Road Industrial Area - Canterbury Bridge

The major road junction between B&Q and PC World is still known as the Canal Bridge junction, even though that bridge has long been wiped away. A more tangible relic is Canal Grove, a row of six Victorian houses once separated from the canal only by a row of chemical tanks, now tucked away as a private cul-de-sac enveloped by trees. These shield residents from the Verney Road Industrial Area, an extensive sprawl of old factories, warehouses and sheds adjacent to the former New Cross Gas Works. It's one of south London's larger employment pockets, originally canal-driven, now off limits to the casual passer-by.



But head to Varcoe Road to rejoin the fray. This used to be a terraced street with gardens backing onto the towpath but has since been rebuilt with an additional street tucked behind. Gerards Close comprises a single row of two dozen houses built directly on top of the former canal, their parking spaces too, and driving out requires crossing the former towpath. It's a complete residential takeover, and easily spotted on a map only because it lines up precisely with the end of Surrey Canal Road... which is where we're going next (or have already been).

» My Grand Surrey Canal Flickr gallery


<< click for Newer posts

click for Older Posts >>


click to return to the main page


...or read more in my monthly archives
Jan24  Feb24  Mar24
Jan23  Feb23  Mar23  Apr23  May23  Jun23  Jul23  Aug23  Sep23  Oct23  Nov23  Dec23
Jan22  Feb22  Mar22  Apr22  May22  Jun22  Jul22  Aug22  Sep22  Oct22  Nov22  Dec22
Jan21  Feb21  Mar21  Apr21  May21  Jun21  Jul21  Aug21  Sep21  Oct21  Nov21  Dec21
Jan20  Feb20  Mar20  Apr20  May20  Jun20  Jul20  Aug20  Sep20  Oct20  Nov20  Dec20
Jan19  Feb19  Mar19  Apr19  May19  Jun19  Jul19  Aug19  Sep19  Oct19  Nov19  Dec19
Jan18  Feb18  Mar18  Apr18  May18  Jun18  Jul18  Aug18  Sep18  Oct18  Nov18  Dec18
Jan17  Feb17  Mar17  Apr17  May17  Jun17  Jul17  Aug17  Sep17  Oct17  Nov17  Dec17
Jan16  Feb16  Mar16  Apr16  May16  Jun16  Jul16  Aug16  Sep16  Oct16  Nov16  Dec16
Jan15  Feb15  Mar15  Apr15  May15  Jun15  Jul15  Aug15  Sep15  Oct15  Nov15  Dec15
Jan14  Feb14  Mar14  Apr14  May14  Jun14  Jul14  Aug14  Sep14  Oct14  Nov14  Dec14
Jan13  Feb13  Mar13  Apr13  May13  Jun13  Jul13  Aug13  Sep13  Oct13  Nov13  Dec13
Jan12  Feb12  Mar12  Apr12  May12  Jun12  Jul12  Aug12  Sep12  Oct12  Nov12  Dec12
Jan11  Feb11  Mar11  Apr11  May11  Jun11  Jul11  Aug11  Sep11  Oct11  Nov11  Dec11
Jan10  Feb10  Mar10  Apr10  May10  Jun10  Jul10  Aug10  Sep10  Oct10  Nov10  Dec10 
Jan09  Feb09  Mar09  Apr09  May09  Jun09  Jul09  Aug09  Sep09  Oct09  Nov09  Dec09
Jan08  Feb08  Mar08  Apr08  May08  Jun08  Jul08  Aug08  Sep08  Oct08  Nov08  Dec08
Jan07  Feb07  Mar07  Apr07  May07  Jun07  Jul07  Aug07  Sep07  Oct07  Nov07  Dec07
Jan06  Feb06  Mar06  Apr06  May06  Jun06  Jul06  Aug06  Sep06  Oct06  Nov06  Dec06
Jan05  Feb05  Mar05  Apr05  May05  Jun05  Jul05  Aug05  Sep05  Oct05  Nov05  Dec05
Jan04  Feb04  Mar04  Apr04  May04  Jun04  Jul04  Aug04  Sep04  Oct04  Nov04  Dec04
Jan03  Feb03  Mar03  Apr03  May03  Jun03  Jul03  Aug03  Sep03  Oct03  Nov03  Dec03
 Jan02  Feb02  Mar02  Apr02  May02  Jun02  Jul02 Aug02  Sep02  Oct02  Nov02  Dec02 

jack of diamonds
Life viewed from London E3

» email me
» follow me on twitter
» follow the blog on Twitter
» follow the blog on RSS

» my flickr photostream

twenty blogs
our bow
arseblog
ian visits
londonist
broken tv
blue witch
on london
the great wen
edith's streets
spitalfields life
linkmachinego
round the island
wanstead meteo
christopher fowler
the greenwich wire
bus and train user
ruth's coastal walk
round the rails we go
london reconnections
from the murky depths

quick reference features
Things to do in Outer London
Things to do outside London
Inner London toilet map
20 years of blog series
The DG Tour of Britain
London's most...

read the archive
Mar24  Feb24  Jan24
Dec23  Nov23  Oct23  Sep23
Aug23  Jul23  Jun23  May23
Apr23  Mar23  Feb23  Jan23
Dec22  Nov22  Oct22  Sep22
Aug22  Jul22  Jun22  May22
Apr22  Mar22  Feb22  Jan22
Dec21  Nov21  Oct21  Sep21
Aug21  Jul21  Jun21  May21
Apr21  Mar21  Feb21  Jan21
Dec20  Nov20  Oct20  Sep20
Aug20  Jul20  Jun20  May20
Apr20  Mar20  Feb20  Jan20
Dec19  Nov19  Oct19  Sep19
Aug19  Jul19  Jun19  May19
Apr19  Mar19  Feb19  Jan19
Dec18  Nov18  Oct18  Sep18
Aug18  Jul18  Jun18  May18
Apr18  Mar18  Feb18  Jan18
Dec17  Nov17  Oct17  Sep17
Aug17  Jul17  Jun17  May17
Apr17  Mar17  Feb17  Jan17
Dec16  Nov16  Oct16  Sep16
Aug16  Jul16  Jun16  May16
Apr16  Mar16  Feb16  Jan16
Dec15  Nov15  Oct15  Sep15
Aug15  Jul15  Jun15  May15
Apr15  Mar15  Feb15  Jan15
Dec14  Nov14  Oct14  Sep14
Aug14  Jul14  Jun14  May14
Apr14  Mar14  Feb14  Jan14
Dec13  Nov13  Oct13  Sep13
Aug13  Jul13  Jun13  May13
Apr13  Mar13  Feb13  Jan13
Dec12  Nov12  Oct12  Sep12
Aug12  Jul12  Jun12  May12
Apr12  Mar12  Feb12  Jan12
Dec11  Nov11  Oct11  Sep11
Aug11  Jul11  Jun11  May11
Apr11  Mar11  Feb11  Jan11
Dec10  Nov10  Oct10  Sep10
Aug10  Jul10  Jun10  May10
Apr10  Mar10  Feb10  Jan10
Dec09  Nov09  Oct09  Sep09
Aug09  Jul09  Jun09  May09
Apr09  Mar09  Feb09  Jan09
Dec08  Nov08  Oct08  Sep08
Aug08  Jul08  Jun08  May08
Apr08  Mar08  Feb08  Jan08
Dec07  Nov07  Oct07  Sep07
Aug07  Jul07  Jun07  May07
Apr07  Mar07  Feb07  Jan07
Dec06  Nov06  Oct06  Sep06
Aug06  Jul06  Jun06  May06
Apr06  Mar06  Feb06  Jan06
Dec05  Nov05  Oct05  Sep05
Aug05  Jul05  Jun05  May05
Apr05  Mar05  Feb05  Jan05
Dec04  Nov04  Oct04  Sep04
Aug04  Jul04  Jun04  May04
Apr04  Mar04  Feb04  Jan04
Dec03  Nov03  Oct03  Sep03
Aug03  Jul03  Jun03  May03
Apr03  Mar03  Feb03  Jan03
Dec02  Nov02  Oct02  Sep02
back to main page

the diamond geezer index
2023 2022
2021 2020 2019 2018 2017
2016 2015 2014 2013 2012
2011 2010 2009 2008 2007
2006 2005 2004 2003 2002

my special London features
a-z of london museums
E3 - local history month
greenwich meridian (N)
greenwich meridian (S)
the real eastenders
london's lost rivers
olympic park 2007
great british roads
oranges & lemons
random boroughs
bow road station
high street 2012
river westbourne
trafalgar square
capital numbers
east london line
lea valley walk
olympics 2005
regent's canal
square routes
silver jubilee
unlost rivers
cube routes
Herbert Dip
metro-land
capital ring
river fleet
piccadilly
bakerloo

ten of my favourite posts
the seven ages of blog
my new Z470xi mobile
five equations of blog
the dome of doom
chemical attraction
quality & risk
london 2102
single life
boredom
april fool

ten sets of lovely photos
my "most interesting" photos
london 2012 olympic zone
harris and the hebrides
betjeman's metro-land
marking the meridian
tracing the river fleet
london's lost rivers
inside the gherkin
seven sisters
iceland

just surfed in?
here's where to find...
diamond geezers
flash mob #1  #2  #3  #4
ben schott's miscellany
london underground
watch with mother
cigarette warnings
digital time delay
wheelie suitcases
war of the worlds
transit of venus
top of the pops
old buckenham
ladybird books
acorn antiques
digital watches
outer hebrides
olympics 2012
school dinners
pet shop boys
west wycombe
bletchley park
george orwell
big breakfast
clapton pond
san francisco
thunderbirds
routemaster
children's tv
east enders
trunk roads
amsterdam
little britain
credit cards
jury service
big brother
jubilee line
number 1s
titan arum
typewriters
doctor who
coronation
comments
blue peter
matchgirls
hurricanes
buzzwords
brookside
monopoly
peter pan
starbucks
feng shui
leap year
manbags
bbc three
vision on
piccadilly
meridian
concorde
wembley
islington
ID cards
bedtime
freeview
beckton
blogads
eclipses
letraset
arsenal
sitcoms
gherkin
calories
everest
muffins
sudoku
camilla
london
ceefax
robbie
becks
dome
BBC2
paris
lotto
118
itv