Coastal walking inspires the soul so I headed to the Woolwich foot tunnel to enjoy all that this amazing seaside journey has to offer.
It's quite the start point, being where the Capital Ring begins as well as kickoff for this latest stretch of perimeter footpath. This is what comes of being the lowest pedestrian crossing point on England's longest river. If you appreciate service roads behind leisure centres parked with council vehicles it's also a lovely spot. Less impressive is that the first England Coast Path arrow has been attached to the multifingered signpost outside the foot tunnel so that it points in completely the wrong direction (towards the Thames Barrier rather than the sea). It might be tempting to descend the steps onto the beach as a prelude to the adventure ahead, but if a mudlark with a Sainsbury's carrier bag is already down there picking over the exposed rocks then best give it a miss.
Well this is all very pleasant. Just offshore is the craft that operates the local sea crossing, the Woolwich Ferry, inert and gleaming at its pierhead because the crew are on strike again. Joggers and council operatives pass by, occasionally at pace, while ropes and chains hang from a dilapidated wooden jetty. Whoever put up the ECP signs round here got somewhat overexcited because there are several, correctly oriented, presumably to ensure you don't wander off into the High Street by mistake. Next we enter the shadow of Woolwich's army of waterside hutchstacks, most now complete and occupied, and all very much blocking out the sun for everyone passing at promenade level.
A wet triangle bubbling with fountains is very much what most of us come to the seaside for, and in a gap between buildings Berkeley have duly obliged. But don't be tempted to go paddling until you've read the adjacent safety notice which loudly screams Beware Shallow Water. This is only the first of a volley of nagging messages displayed by local administrative killjoys, of which This Has Been Restored As A Focal Historic Artefact And Should Not Be Climbed On Under Any Circumstances is definitely my favourite. Instead take a seat on the wooden boxes shielding the estate's inner flood defences and gaze out towards boats gently bobbing amid the waves... or if that doesn't appeal someone's had the sense to open a yoga hub which delivers coffee and pilates instead.
A ramp leads up and over into the Woolwich Arsenal development past three candles and an artificial wreath, which sadly suggests someone once threw themselves from this concrete clifftop. The seafront here is suddenly buzzing with activity because this is the main access route from Woolwich town centre, which no doubt is where all the candy floss merchants and amusement arcades are hiding. Weave your way through the copper statues, skirt past the closed refreshment kiosk and whatever you do Please Keep Off The Cannon. This is the point from which Uber cruisers depart for far distant London, should you fancy a jaunt round the bay, and is also where grinning bigwigs in Natural England waterproofs cut the ribbon to declare this stretch of the England Coastal path open.
Ahead lies Woolwich's promenade which is an ideal location to absorb the sea air. Expect to share the path with dogwalkers, parents with pushchairs and a surplus of pensioners, because the coast has always been the best place to retire. On the landward side is a plush fringe of shrubbery reminiscent of Bournemouth's finest gardens and beyond that a long slew of parking spaces. These would be ideal for sitting in the warm behind a steering wheel and eating sandwiches while watching the breakers, were they not a bit too low down and also reserved for local residents. Instead nudge closer to the seawall to spy the boats tugging their cargoes out into open water or to look down onto the line of seagulls congregating along the mud's edge.
That copper-topped building above the slipway looks like it might sell hotdogs and 99s but is in fact a ventilation shaft for Woolwich's miniature railway. Beyond is an elevated coastal strip which ought to be the perfect spot for a holiday camp but has instead been occupied by eight blocks of flats, a little lower than earlier and less encumbered by service charges. A flurry of ECP signs guides walkers to the lower of two paths, now closer than ever to the water and protected only by sky-blue railings. Best not risk the beach - the upturned wheels of a half-submerged supermarket trolley hint at why. Instead listen to the squawks of seagulls scrapping over a muddy treat and maybe the roar of a plane coming in to land at the estuary airport offshore.
Every good seaside resort has a pier and Woolwich is no exception. Alas some jobsworth has blocked the entrance with razor wire under the pretence that this is a Dangerous Structure, no doubt for some ridiculous reason like unsafe timbers or broken guardrail, and the far end is now regrettably funfairless. Deep rivulets cut into the mud carve creeklike channels, one a rushing stream where a heron can be seen stalking its prey beside the outflow. Squint into the distance and you might spot the far shores of some distant land where further beachfront development is gathering apace. Alas we're now too far from town for donkey rides to be a viable proposition, but as the minor resort of West Thamesmead approaches that's the first mile of the newest section of the England Coast Path duly ticked off.
The 48 miles that follow include the wilds of Tripcock Ness, Crossness's sewage cathedral, the buzz of Erith, a massive detour to traverse the Darent, the entertainment capital that is Dartford, the mighty Swanscombe pylon, the Gravesend Riviera, acres of bleak Dickensian marshes, copious saltings, a barely-visible maritime fort, five miles with no connection to any other footpaths whatsoever, the downtrodden seaside resort of Allhallows, a diversion round a danger area, the far end of the B2001 and finally the coastal anomaly of GrainFort.
But there's no need to report back on any of that, given that the first mile through Woolwich boasts everything the English Coast has to offer.
