Sometimes you just want to go for a nice walk, nothing too taxing, a bit of a stroll, lots to see, pretty views, historic buildings, close to public transport, refreshment options, frostproof underfoot, won't take long. So here's a classic mile round a bend in the Thames in Richmond, nowhere near enough to make a day of it but a nice walk all the same.
Let's start by Richmond Bridge. I'm aware that this is the same place I began a previous nice walk but this time we're starting under the bridge rather than on it, plus you could always string the two together and make a doubly nice two miler.
Richmond Bridge has spanned the Thames here since 1776, which is plenty long enough for a selection of pubs and restaurants to have sprung up so revellers can admire the view. Grab a beverage of an appropriate temperature, which in this case would be as warm as possible because a frosty, foggy, subzero riverbank awaits. A sign outside the Tide Tables Cafe confirms "you are welcome to use our tables without purchasing items from the cafe", which although generous would be unwise in weather like this unless you want icy trousers. A chain of rowing boats adds a splash of colour to the wintry scene, although its board advertising boat hire and ice cream looks jarringly out of place.
The riverside is a favoured spot for local promenading couples and families, especially of a weekend. Those escorting the smallest children don't look like they'll be promenading very far. The yapping of dogs echoes off the less lovely apartment blocks on the far side of the river. The outdoor economy is in hibernation so the benches at Stein's Restaurant have been upended until spring. The plane tree beside Gaucho is said to be the tallest/oldest in London (delete as applicable). If the doors to Richmond Canoe Club are open this suggests several freezing souls are out on the river.
Richmond council have kindly labelled various segments of the public gardens you walk past, including Mears Walk, Gothic Gardens and Midhurst Site. The most intriguing diversion is Grotto Gate, a flint-lined, barrel-vaulted tunnel which ducks under Petersham Road to emerge at the foot of what sounds like a fountain... but if you climb the narrow steps nah, it was just a gushing pipe. There's much to explore on the upper riverbank, plus classicviews from the higher slopes, but that was essentially my previous nice walk so best not head there now.
At Buccleuch Gardens the river veers right on a great scenic bend, so best switch to the grassy path and aim to follow almost alongside. Come in summer and you'd miss the frosty treetrunks, the bare branches and the icy undergrowth, but where would be the fun in that? The gate at the far end is designed to be impassable by bike, but is easily circumvented if you have the upper arm strength to lift your bicycle over. Should you decide to drop into Eileen's cafe, a fairly recent addition, best not ponder that it used to be a disused toilet block and ideally choose the hot chocolate over the gelato.
A choice of three routes now beckons. The most obvious is across Petersham Meadows, the historic water meadow where cattle have grazed for centuries. They used to be a dairy herd until that became woefully uneconomic so the current lot, overseen by the National Trust, are part of a beefy smallholding. They're only let loose from April to October, however, so striding across frozen pasture in December is safe even for wayward dogs. The second most obvious route hugs the riverbank and a third traces the narrow gap inbetween, bounded by a fence on one side and a low concrete flood wall on the other. All three will deliver you to the same point on the far side at the top of River Lane.
That ½-acre islet midstream is Glover's Island, named after the Victorian chancer who bought it for £70 and then tried to flog it for £5000 to the council, who declined. A resident of Richmond Hill eventually paid £1600 and gave it to the council anyway on the condition it was never built upon, which obviously it never has been. Boats only tie up along the far bank, not this, but canoeists may be spotted anywhere at any time, carving through the water in colourful but insufficiently thermal clothing.
Only the hardier strollers get this far, at least in this freezing weather. Yesterday most looked like they'd stepped out of the pages of a winterwear catalogue, immaculately turned out in matching coats, hats, scarves and pristine boots that'd been waiting in the wardrobe for a day like this. That's southwest London for you. Occasionally someone walked past in a rowing club gilet or amateurishly knitted woolly, but Primark and JJB Sports outerwear was noticeably absent and I felt properly common in my Millets jacket.
The last quarter mile is an isolated riverside path hemmed in behind Petersham Lodge Woods, the local Sea Scouts' enclave and a fenced-off meadow. Many of the benches here look quite recent judging by the dates of those they commemorate. One is dedicated to Count Stephen Ouvaroff because that's Richmond for you. I was particularly intrigued by the plaque to My Incredible Labrador (2003-2018), it not being clear whether Dave Pollard was the name of the dog or its owner. Eventually Marble Hill House becomes visible on the opposite bank and then, beside a useful fingerpost, is the landing board for Hammerton's Ferry. This is currently closed for the season but reopens on Christmas Eve for weekend crossings at £1 a time, so this is where I've chosen to end my nice walk.
In the absence of a ferry the next Thames crossing is the Teddington footbridge almost two miles ahead. The only other means of escape here is down the side of Ham House, perhaps dodging kids having riding lessons, and potentially linking up with the other end of my other nice walk at the top of Petersham Hill. I waved my National Trust card and enjoyed a look round Ham House instead, which is currently decked out in full-on festive finery (but not especially warm because the Jacobeans weren't big on central heating). A very nice end to a nice walk.
