In this series I'm taking the train one stop beyond the Greater London boundary, getting off and seeing what's there. Today that means Stoneleigh, one stop beyond Worcester Park on the line between Wimbledon and Epsom. For positioning purposes it's wedged between the boroughs of Kingston and Sutton in a protuberance of Surrey, so close to town that it's the only zone 5 rail station beyond the Greater London boundary. In a familiar story it really was all fields 100 years ago, then trains stopped and suddenly wham, suburbia erupted in seven years flat.
Stoneleigh station filled a gap on the existing Mole Valley Line in 1932 and was named after a big house half a mile away on the London Road. Leafy avenues then spread either side of the railway with no attempt to build a road to connect them, thus a footbridge and a couple of subways continue to do heavy lifting for connectivity hereabouts. The footbridge used to be anaustere concrete link but was replaced last year by an accessible lift-enabled span much to the delight of elderly locals attempting to go shopping. What's missing is a screen displaying when the next train goes, so you only find out it's cancelled after you've schlepped down to the platform and discovered you face a half hour wait, and I may be speaking from experience here.
Shops line both sides of Stoneleigh Broadway, a broad boulevard with ample parking and two long redbrick parades of the kind they always built in the 30s. We may be only quarter of a mile from cosmopolitan London but the selection of shops is quintessentially Surrey, from a large dry cleaners to an independent travel agent with a traditional butcher in the middle. The newsagents still doubles up as a stationers so has a wall of writing implements at the far end. There's no gym but one unit does art classes, one sells cub and scout uniforms and another's a dance school. Eating options are a tad timewarped with an Oriental Takeaway, a chippie called the Pisces Fish Kitchen, a bistro that stretches to tapas On Selected Nights Only and just the one pub in a rustic gabled mansion called The Station. If you enjoyed shopping in the 1990s you'd feel right at home here.
Stoneleigh is not buzzing with points of interest but it does have one extraordinary attraction tucked down an alleyway round the back of the carpet showroom. I'd forgotten it existed until Anita Dobson popped up on Radio 2 while I was doing my research and mentioned retrieving her EastEnders costumes from a small museum in Stoneleigh, which I then totally had to visit. Hopefully a board on the high street would have nudged me had I not been listening - "You ain't seen London till you've been to the Cockney Museum".
Let's be fair, it's large yellow lockup with plexiglass windows, plasterboard walls and a doorbell to press. But inside is an Aladdin's Cave of throwback treasures collected by the Pearly King of Peckham, George Major, who made it his lockdown project to display his extensive collection of memorabilia here in Stoneleigh. Sometimes he's here to guide you round but I was told he was out so got to explore by myself, for a good 45 minutes.
The museum's in three parts of which the first, Poverty Street, is the least successful. George has plastered the walls with photos of old London and the poorer folk who inhabited it, but then decided to display them in near darkness lit only by flickering lanterns. "Probably best to illuminate them with your phone," I was told, but accepted the offer of a poundshop torch instead and squinted my way round. The photos are fascinating and George's captions perhaps more so... No Health And Safety In Them Days, Do You Remember Liptons Tea And Grocery Shops, Note That Everyone Wore A Hat, We Led The World In Them Days.
Things improve at the far end, Market Square, not least because it's properly illuminated. George used to be a costermonger so the display includes a big barrow piled with fake fruit, and also the original frontage of a former Manze's pie shop (Meat Pies 1d, Fruit Pies 1d, Eel Pies 2d). The museum's teensy cafe can serve up proper pie & mash and apple pie & custard, but I understand you have to book ahead.
The final section is King and Queen Square where pearly heritage comes to the fore and this was the best bit of the lot. 27 button-splattered costumes are on display, each with George's notes on who wore them where and the adversities they overcame. Pearly royalty grew up all over the capital from Shepherds Bush to Dagenham and Wood Green to Walworth, many of whom appear in the multitude of photographs or on the screen in the little cinema. The Pearly Queen of Hampstead was the smartest, apparently, and Bill from West Ham the poorest.
Keep reading the walls and eventually the celebrities appear, be that George with Chas and Dave, with Suggs or getting a peck from Audrey Callaghan the Prime Minister's wife. Most delightfully the lady collecting the money at the end turned out to be one of the Pearly Princesses from a black and white family snapshot I'd seen earlier, pleased to point out her younger self. George's book is available by the till and sorry, admission prices have gone up £1 compared to what's on the website due to the rising price of electricity. Best bring a torch.
Four other places to see in Stoneleigh
Nonsuch Park: This open space was the location of Henry VIII's finest palace, previously blogged, of which nothing remains because a subsequent owner had it demolished to pay off gambling debts. One of the last leftovers was Queen Elizabeth's Elm, a hollow tree of great girth which grew in front of the kitchen court and under which it's said the Tudor Queen stood to shoot at deer. Alas it was burnt down in 1902 because vandalism is nothing new, and I looked in vain by the footpath in the dog-free field for a trace of the slight mound archaeologists claim to have found in 1995.
The source of the Beverley Brook: This nine mile river flows into the Thames at Putney but rises here at the top end of Cuddington Recreation Ground, marginally inside London. A thin treelined strip snakes downslope fed from a brick culvert, although at present it's a stagnant milky trickle which takes several metres before it de-opaques. Step within the leafy curtain and you can follow the ditch unseen by neighbouring dog-walkers, meeting instead fallen branches, crisp packets and the odd disturbed squirrel.
68 Stoneleigh Park Road: This was the childhood home of the playwright John Osborne, the Angry Young Man who wrote Look Back In Anger and other kitchen sink dramas. His family moved here in 1936 when he was five, just round the corner from Station Approach, growing up in what he'd later describe as a 'cultural desert' he couldn't wait to escape from.
Ewell Court: This large Victorian house with a Jacobean core was bought by the council in the 1930s and has since been used as a clinic, decontamination unit, care home, library and wedding venue. A nasty arson attack in 2013 has required considerable renovation but the lakeside setting attracts many locally, as do the tearoom and ice cream parlour. Note to the cafe, you cannot erect a sign saying 'Secret Garden This Way' and expect to be taken seriously. I particularly liked the Fernery/Grotto under the arch out back, originally part of an Edwardian conservatory and whose many rocky crannies are actually made of Pulhamite. And yes technically this is in Ewell, just off the river Hogsmill, but it's closer to Stoneleigh station than to Ewell West so I'm counting it as one stop beyond.
