diamond geezer

 Saturday, January 05, 2013

Underground 150 Edgware Road → Baker Street

This is the second of six inter-station walks along the original Metropolitan Railway. Here we hit the Marylebone Road, and stick with it all the way to King's Cross. I'll try not to get too repetitive. [map] [old map] [14 photos]

Transportationally speaking, the road from Edgware Road to the City is pioneeringly important. Not only did the world's first underground railway pass this way, so did London's first bus service - George Shillibeer's horse-drawn omnibus in 1829. Originally the "New Road" had been constructed as a London by-pass, a turnpike for cattle and sheep to reach Smithfield market through the fields of Marylebone. That was in 1756, since when the capital had expanded northwards to reach and then engulf this increasingly important outer orbital. Today it's one of the most important roads in central London, keeping the through traffic flowing and marking the northern edge of the Congestion Charge zone. Just try not to breathe in too often, because pollution levels along here are amongst the worst in the capital.

Edgware Road station is the last time the Hammersmith & City line sees daylight until beyond King's Cross. Trains head into a tunnel beneath the junction of Marylebone Road and Old Marylebone Road, and stay there, following the line of the tarmac. The road's wide, so pedestrians following above ground need to decide which side to walk on. I'd suggest the southern pavement because it has more interesting buildings... but only just. We start with the new Westminster Magistrates Court, a sturdy edifice through which those accused of extradition and terrorism offences pass. It's barely been open a year, but was built on the site of Marylebone's original court house which is older than the underground. Further along are the headquarters of BHS and NCR, that's British Home Stores and National Cash Registers. And then the former Marylebone Town Hall, now renamed Westminster Council House and home to the local Register Office. It's a magnificent municipal citadel, the kind of building where Paul McCartney would get married, and has done twice.

Several residential streets cross at right angles, some important thoroughfares, others quieter echoes of Georgian expansion. And behind The Landmark Hotel is a place you might have thought the new underground railway would stop, but doesn't. It's Marylebone station, one of five mainline termini located along the New Road, and the only one the Metropolitan completely ignored. And that's because Marylebone wasn't here when the first underground was built, it arrived as late as 1899, in time only for the Bakerloo to drop by. Never mind, it's only a short walk to...

Baker Street station: Ah, the pride of the Metropolitan Railway. And still the pride of TfL today, who've managed to preserve as wide a range of heritage features at Baker Street as you'll find anywhere. No crappy Metronet revamp here, but a proper full restoration of the cut and cover platforms, for which we can be truly thankful. Stand here beneath the gently vaulting ceiling and you can easily imagine Victorian gentlemen in top hats waiting for a train, their cigarette smoke mingling with the steam from the tunnels. It was undoubtedly less romantic than that, but TfL's anniversary celebrations will involve the return of steam to this sacred space, and many a tube aficionado will be along to worship. Let's ask someone who knows what they're talking about to wax lyrical.
The platforms are covered by the 1863 broad segmental buff-brick barrel vault of 16 main bays, each with deep lunette set into flanks, clad internally in modern white tiles. Vault soffit repaired 1985 matching original. Footbridges to E and W end. E footbridge lined with glazed brick faience tiling, incorporating oculus inscribed 'MR', probably remodelling of earlier (possibly 1868) bridge. 1911 footbridge at W end, of reinforced concrete, has segmental rusticated arch, and also retains internal tiling, as does stair on N side. Behind this is the 1863 tunnel portal with roll-moulded arch. Remains of basement of 1863 entrance building survive behind N staircase.
If you want the full heritage detail, I strongly suggest you check out this page on TfL's urban design website. But let me tell you anyhow about some of my favourite features. The Metropolitan Railway iron crests pinned to the walls - part of the 1983 restoration and highly evocative. The benches in the alcoves - none of your off-the-shelf metal seats here. The "secret" overbridge at the western end of the platform - which turns out to have been the main entrance in 1863, via two station buildings on opposite sides of the Marylebone Road. And the glazed blue signage above the main entrance to the eastbound platform - originally installed for crowd control reasons for the British Empire Exhibition in 1925, and retained ever since.

Head up the stairs to the main ticket hall, and the hint of a golden age remains. Lettered tiles spell out the name W H Smith & Son above a ticket window and machine, while nextdoor is a similar dedication to "Luncheon & Tea Rooms". That would have been the Chiltern Court restaurant above, a demure dining space much beloved by John Betjeman, but since transformed into a less erudite Wetherspoons (which reminds me - Metroland, 10pm, Thursday 10th January, BBC4, be there). Look up as you climb the remaining staircase to see an elaborate Metropolitan Railway keystone dated 1912. And on the Portland stone wall facing the roadway, where you might not think to look, are two commemorative plaques. One was unveiled by Met chairman Lord Aberconway at the station's rebuilding, the other on the underground's 100th anniversary. I showed you that the other day, remember. It's a proud reminder that out of sight, just beneath the thundering traffic, is where everything started. And continues.

» Portland Road

<< click for Newer posts

click for Older Posts >>

click to return to the main page

...or read more in my monthly archives
Jan23  Feb23  Mar23  Apr23  May23  Jun23  Jul23  Aug23  Sep23  Oct23  Nov23  Dec23
Jan22  Feb22  Mar22  Apr22  May22  Jun22  Jul22  Aug22  Sep22  Oct22  Nov22  Dec22
Jan21  Feb21  Mar21  Apr21  May21  Jun21  Jul21  Aug21  Sep21  Oct21  Nov21  Dec21
Jan20  Feb20  Mar20  Apr20  May20  Jun20  Jul20  Aug20  Sep20  Oct20  Nov20  Dec20
Jan19  Feb19  Mar19  Apr19  May19  Jun19  Jul19  Aug19  Sep19  Oct19  Nov19  Dec19
Jan18  Feb18  Mar18  Apr18  May18  Jun18  Jul18  Aug18  Sep18  Oct18  Nov18  Dec18
Jan17  Feb17  Mar17  Apr17  May17  Jun17  Jul17  Aug17  Sep17  Oct17  Nov17  Dec17
Jan16  Feb16  Mar16  Apr16  May16  Jun16  Jul16  Aug16  Sep16  Oct16  Nov16  Dec16
Jan15  Feb15  Mar15  Apr15  May15  Jun15  Jul15  Aug15  Sep15  Oct15  Nov15  Dec15
Jan14  Feb14  Mar14  Apr14  May14  Jun14  Jul14  Aug14  Sep14  Oct14  Nov14  Dec14
Jan13  Feb13  Mar13  Apr13  May13  Jun13  Jul13  Aug13  Sep13  Oct13  Nov13  Dec13
Jan12  Feb12  Mar12  Apr12  May12  Jun12  Jul12  Aug12  Sep12  Oct12  Nov12  Dec12
Jan11  Feb11  Mar11  Apr11  May11  Jun11  Jul11  Aug11  Sep11  Oct11  Nov11  Dec11
Jan10  Feb10  Mar10  Apr10  May10  Jun10  Jul10  Aug10  Sep10  Oct10  Nov10  Dec10 
Jan09  Feb09  Mar09  Apr09  May09  Jun09  Jul09  Aug09  Sep09  Oct09  Nov09  Dec09
Jan08  Feb08  Mar08  Apr08  May08  Jun08  Jul08  Aug08  Sep08  Oct08  Nov08  Dec08
Jan07  Feb07  Mar07  Apr07  May07  Jun07  Jul07  Aug07  Sep07  Oct07  Nov07  Dec07
Jan06  Feb06  Mar06  Apr06  May06  Jun06  Jul06  Aug06  Sep06  Oct06  Nov06  Dec06
Jan05  Feb05  Mar05  Apr05  May05  Jun05  Jul05  Aug05  Sep05  Oct05  Nov05  Dec05
Jan04  Feb04  Mar04  Apr04  May04  Jun04  Jul04  Aug04  Sep04  Oct04  Nov04  Dec04
Jan03  Feb03  Mar03  Apr03  May03  Jun03  Jul03  Aug03  Sep03  Oct03  Nov03  Dec03
 Jan02  Feb02  Mar02  Apr02  May02  Jun02  Jul02 Aug02  Sep02  Oct02  Nov02  Dec02 

jack of diamonds
Life viewed from London E3

» email me
» follow me on twitter
» follow the blog on Twitter
» follow the blog on RSS

» my flickr photostream

twenty blogs
our bow
ian visits
broken tv
blue witch
on london
the great wen
edith's streets
spitalfields life
round the island
wanstead meteo
christopher fowler
the greenwich wire
bus and train user
ruth's coastal walk
round the rails we go
london reconnections
from the murky depths

quick reference features
Things to do in Outer London
Things to do outside London
Inner London toilet map
20 years of blog series
The DG Tour of Britain

read the archive
Dec23  Nov23  Oct23  Sep23
Aug23  Jul23  Jun23  May23
Apr23  Mar23  Feb23  Jan23
Dec22  Nov22  Oct22  Sep22
Aug22  Jul22  Jun22  May22
Apr22  Mar22  Feb22  Jan22
Dec21  Nov21  Oct21  Sep21
Aug21  Jul21  Jun21  May21
Apr21  Mar21  Feb21  Jan21
Dec20  Nov20  Oct20  Sep20
Aug20  Jul20  Jun20  May20
Apr20  Mar20  Feb20  Jan20
Dec19  Nov19  Oct19  Sep19
Aug19  Jul19  Jun19  May19
Apr19  Mar19  Feb19  Jan19
Dec18  Nov18  Oct18  Sep18
Aug18  Jul18  Jun18  May18
Apr18  Mar18  Feb18  Jan18
Dec17  Nov17  Oct17  Sep17
Aug17  Jul17  Jun17  May17
Apr17  Mar17  Feb17  Jan17
Dec16  Nov16  Oct16  Sep16
Aug16  Jul16  Jun16  May16
Apr16  Mar16  Feb16  Jan16
Dec15  Nov15  Oct15  Sep15
Aug15  Jul15  Jun15  May15
Apr15  Mar15  Feb15  Jan15
Dec14  Nov14  Oct14  Sep14
Aug14  Jul14  Jun14  May14
Apr14  Mar14  Feb14  Jan14
Dec13  Nov13  Oct13  Sep13
Aug13  Jul13  Jun13  May13
Apr13  Mar13  Feb13  Jan13
Dec12  Nov12  Oct12  Sep12
Aug12  Jul12  Jun12  May12
Apr12  Mar12  Feb12  Jan12
Dec11  Nov11  Oct11  Sep11
Aug11  Jul11  Jun11  May11
Apr11  Mar11  Feb11  Jan11
Dec10  Nov10  Oct10  Sep10
Aug10  Jul10  Jun10  May10
Apr10  Mar10  Feb10  Jan10
Dec09  Nov09  Oct09  Sep09
Aug09  Jul09  Jun09  May09
Apr09  Mar09  Feb09  Jan09
Dec08  Nov08  Oct08  Sep08
Aug08  Jul08  Jun08  May08
Apr08  Mar08  Feb08  Jan08
Dec07  Nov07  Oct07  Sep07
Aug07  Jul07  Jun07  May07
Apr07  Mar07  Feb07  Jan07
Dec06  Nov06  Oct06  Sep06
Aug06  Jul06  Jun06  May06
Apr06  Mar06  Feb06  Jan06
Dec05  Nov05  Oct05  Sep05
Aug05  Jul05  Jun05  May05
Apr05  Mar05  Feb05  Jan05
Dec04  Nov04  Oct04  Sep04
Aug04  Jul04  Jun04  May04
Apr04  Mar04  Feb04  Jan04
Dec03  Nov03  Oct03  Sep03
Aug03  Jul03  Jun03  May03
Apr03  Mar03  Feb03  Jan03
Dec02  Nov02  Oct02  Sep02
back to main page

the diamond geezer index
2021 2020 2019 2018 2017
2016 2015 2014 2013 2012
2011 2010 2009 2008 2007
2006 2005 2004 2003 2002

my special London features
a-z of london museums
E3 - local history month
greenwich meridian (N)
greenwich meridian (S)
the real eastenders
london's lost rivers
olympic park 2007
great british roads
oranges & lemons
random boroughs
bow road station
high street 2012
river westbourne
trafalgar square
capital numbers
east london line
lea valley walk
olympics 2005
regent's canal
square routes
silver jubilee
unlost rivers
cube routes
Herbert Dip
capital ring
river fleet

ten of my favourite posts
the seven ages of blog
my new Z470xi mobile
five equations of blog
the dome of doom
chemical attraction
quality & risk
london 2102
single life
april fool

ten sets of lovely photos
my "most interesting" photos
london 2012 olympic zone
harris and the hebrides
betjeman's metro-land
marking the meridian
tracing the river fleet
london's lost rivers
inside the gherkin
seven sisters

just surfed in?
here's where to find...
diamond geezers
flash mob #1  #2  #3  #4
ben schott's miscellany
london underground
watch with mother
cigarette warnings
digital time delay
wheelie suitcases
war of the worlds
transit of venus
top of the pops
old buckenham
ladybird books
acorn antiques
digital watches
outer hebrides
olympics 2012
school dinners
pet shop boys
west wycombe
bletchley park
george orwell
big breakfast
clapton pond
san francisco
children's tv
east enders
trunk roads
little britain
credit cards
jury service
big brother
jubilee line
number 1s
titan arum
doctor who
blue peter
peter pan
feng shui
leap year
bbc three
vision on
ID cards